Double Period Project 1812/ 1912

So, we have the inspiration illustrations and paintings, we have the fabric.  Pattern(s) will be next.

Even though I already had a pattern, the Tailor's Guide, I really wanted a "M" notch collar pattern. I so I purchased this Rocking Horse Farm pattern from http://www.lostcoasthistorical.com/

It was on sale, 20% off of the listed price.

   

Pattern pieces retraced and cutout.

This my cat Max inspecting the underside of the mockup fabric.  He is not allowed to be on the

fabric, but that doesn't mean he can't be under the fabric.

 

The bump in the upper right hand corner of the fabric is still Max.  He is really doing

a thorough job.

The top pattern piece required you to tape the side front to the front piece.  I used blue painter's tape, it doesn't damage the pattern piece. It comes off easily as well.

The collar pattern piece, lower center contains the notch.

 

The mockup is pretty much put together. The fabric was some of the first fabric that I purchased when I first taught myself to sew, about three or four years ago.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

The frockcoat is the next item of clothing to make according to the initial project plan for the 1812 promenade suit. One of the distinctive features of the coat was its "M" notched collar.  I had purchased the Tailor' Guide pattern a couple of years ago from http://www.lostcoasthistorical.com/.  Once again, there was a sale and I took the opportunity to add the pattern to my collection, but I had never used it.

One of the draw backs with this pattern, it did not have the "M"  notched collar.  Through my initial research, I found that both types were used by gentlemen.  Again, I guess that it was a personal preference or simply left to the gentleman's tailor to decide.

This illustration from Victoriana.com does not have a notched collar. It is the primary inspiration for my 1812 outfit.

This frockcoat is quite dark, but you can clearly see the "M" notched collar.

A linen frockcoat from the V& A museum, it does not have notched collar.

A double breasted frockcoat.

I just wanted to make one with the "M" notch.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

Well, almost done with these trousers.  I really like the way that these are turning out.  They were supposed to be the mockup trousers.  But, I think that I just might use these instead of the other material that I had selected.

Pining the crotch area and lining up the seams.  I think that I finished all of the seams of these trousers as well.  Again extra work, but important.

The fall front of the trousers, the lower front fall at the bottom, is not quite right. It is just a little bunchy, I may have to tack that down just a bit.  You can see the crotch seam a bit in this picture.

The back of the pants, this area, will contain three lace holes to tighten the trousers.

I thouught that they would be a bit baggy in the back.  Well, I guess I have put on a couple of pounds, they are not as baggy as I would have liked.

A better view of the crotch area.  This is another of those tricky areas in men's pant making that can be problematic. I am pleased with this.

Yea Me! trousers are down, well the really hard part at least.

I usually save the button sewing for last. I plan to work the button holes by hand instead of using the sewing machine this time around. We will see how that goes.

Oh, you can just barely see it, but the trousers seams at the bottom are not sewn.  They will be finished and left open as in the inspirational pictures from the previous post.  I kind of like that look.

I am really pleased with the way that these trousers came together. Now, all that remains to be done are hems for the trousers, button and lace holes and of course attach the buttons.

Next up, the biggy, the 1812 Frockcoat.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

Progress continues with the trousers. The pattern instructions are easy to follow.  However, this pattern does require a lot of hand sewing.  I really think that the last time that I attempted to make breeches similar to these trousers, I opted to machine sew where the instructions requested hand sewing.  I can see the difference. It does take a bit more time to do the hand stitching, but, the results are really worth it. I am so glad that I did the required hand stitching this time around even for these mockups.

The front portion of the trousers, as you can see are coming together nicely.  This is also one of the problem areas in the fall front trousers and breeches.  It is not easy to get that fall to behave itself and not bunch or pull.  The goal is to have a smooth flat fall front.  I have seen some costumers place extra buttons in this area to help with this issue. 

The back legs and seat of the trousers.

This is a better view of the potential problem area.  You see right at the bottom of each left and right flap where they attach to the trouser front.  The fall front will come up to cover these flaps, the place where the fall and the flaps meet can cause problems.

The backs have been attached, at center back you can see hand stitching.  The kind of "V" shape at center back will have small button holes for a short rear laces to adjust the fit of the trouser back.  This was quite common. The trouser backs were supposed to be quite full.

More hand stitching required for the interior of the waistband.

I am pretty pleased with this little bit of stitchery.

Double Period Project 1812 / 19112

For the 1812 trousers, I already had a couple of patterns. I had the Butterick 3648 Making History pattern and the Mill Farm Man's Breeches circa 1770 - 1800.  This was the Waterloo pattern.  It just did not come together.   One of the online pattern stores that I use is  http://www.lostcoasthistorical.com/ ,  the store was having a sale with a 20% discount, so, I decided to buy the Buckaroo Bobbins Authentic vintage western pattern for broad fall trousers.  Once, I got the pattern, I read the instructions, they were clearly written, step by step.  I really liked that.  It really helps, especially, if you have not made a particular historical item before. 

As I have said before, I no longer cut up my paper patterns, but instead, I make a copy and use the copy. In that way, I always have the original to review and check markings etc.  Once you cut a paper pattern, it is cut, and it is so easy to lose a pattern piece.

I need to definitley make a mockup of these trousers first.  The above picture is of the inside flap that the fall covers. 

Lesson 1, read your pattern instructions before you start, once or twice at least.  If you are not sure about some particular aspect of the pattern instructions, you can research it to find out how to do it, even obtain a tutorial, before you have to do it during construction.

That's Max, he really wanted to lay right on the pattern and fabric. As you can see, he's as close to it he can get.  Other times, I tell him no, he will just walk across the fabric and pattern since he is not allowed to lay on it.

Mockup first, extra 2 1/2 yards of remant material that I got from my favorite fabric store, Jomar. Anyway, it was just enough.

The inside flaps have been attached.  I think that they have a name, but I can't remember.  The mockup fabric is a nice cotton blend.  Actually, the color is pretty good for the period as well.  The trousers tended to be lighter in color for the day and darker for even or formal wear.   However, white breeches / trousers were also worn for formal events as well.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

The next article of clothing to be made for the man's 1812 walkinng or promenade suit, are the trousers. Fall front trousers to be exact.  Although, breeches were still being worn, trousers according to the  literature were increasing being worn by men from all walks of life. 

I had attempted to make fall front breeches before and met my Waterloo.  They never got beyond the mockup stage.  I hated them. There were two styles, the wide fall front and the small fall front.  From the illustrations and paintings, it seemed to me, that the trousers were all wide fall front.  So, I will be making wide fall front trousers.

Notice in the illustration above, you can  barely discern that trousers are fall front.  However, they are and wide ones at that.

Even in this painting, you can clearly see the fall front.  In this case, these are breeches, you can see the button closures at the knee.

Once again, the wide fall front is just barely visual.  Getting that fall to lay properly is really difficult.  You don't want a big bunch of material where the fall starts.  In all of the above pictures, there appears to be a very clean transition.  This could just be the illustrations and painting omitting the problem bunching that can occur in this area. The aim is to have a very clean transition.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

Ta Da, the finished waistcoat.  I think that it came out pretty well and and I quite pleased with it.  I like the larger standup collar.  Currently, I have pins holding it together.  Buttons will come later, the bulk of this task is done.  Well almost, all of the edges must be pick stitched to stop the lining from rolling to the outside.
But, I really don't mind doing that, it really makes a difference.

The finished waistcoat.  I should have placed the shirt inside before I took this picture, but I didn't think of it.

The lining with the fabric as facing.  The pockets are just flaps to mimick pockets, there really wasn't enough space left to make actual pockets.  I don't know if you can see, but I started the pick stitching, all of the edges will be pick stitched.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

The first thing that I wanted to do was to make a mockup of the pattern. It had been sometime since I had actually made this particular waistcoat.  Plus, I needed to change the collar. 

The picture above is the mockup with the completed shirt.  I actually like the material, the print is way to big for this regency waistcoat.  I think that I had just barely enough to make it.

This left over fabric was just enough and it was extremely light weight. The pattern pieces are layed out on the material.  I don't have an actual sewing room, I use the guest bedroom, so I can close the door when it get really messy with sewing projects.

All of the pattern pieces have been cut out.

That's Max taking a nap on the cardboard grid.  I added fabric facing to the lining.

The new collar.

I had to show you a picture of this.  To get to this point and turn the waist coat right side out took me forever. I initially, thought that I would save some sewing time by sewing up the sides prior to turning.

It just would not turn properly.  I tried and tried.  Finally, I looked back at the instructions which I had read and reread many times.  I finally noticed the illustration and it was just as you see it above.  You can not sew up the sides first.  So, a picture is worth a thousand words as they say.  I picked out the stitches in the previously sewed up sides and Voila!  The waistcoat turned to the right correctly.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

The Rocking Horse Farm pattern was pretty easy to follow. The pattern instructions were a little awkward in its layout.  It required you to flip instructions pages backward and forward a couple of times to  follow the sequence of instructions.  I obtained the pattern from one of my favorite historical costume sites http://www.lostcoasthistorical.com/  I think I got it for $10.

Above is the actual pattern cover.  The picture seems to illustrate a fairly tall collar, but it is not.

The instructions were step by step, but required you to flip backward and forward, the sequence was a bit off.

The actual pattern, you will notice, that the pattern is not cut out.  I no longer cut my any historical patterns from their original paper, instead, I now make copies and cut the copy up.  In that way, I always have the original pattern to refer to if I need to size up or size down.  What you see under the pattern is the mockup material that I plan to use.  I had't made this pattern in a while, so I needed to make a mockup since I altered the collar.

The brown pattern piece at the lower right hand bottom of the picture is new collar pattern piece.  You can see the original pattern piece just above it.  Notice how the original collar is rounded, as you see I altered it quite a bit.

A better image of the orignial collar pattern with the new taller pattern, I extended the pattern by 1 1/2 to 2 inches in lenght and about 2 1/2 inches in width.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

Below are a couple of pictures of the waistcoat that I previously made with this same pattern.  The pattern instructions were pretty straight forward.

In the picture below, you have a better image of the waistcoat collar, which for the DPP will need to be altered. 

While studying the potraits of men from this period, I noticed something.  The fabric which the waistcoat was made,  appeared to be extremely thin, perhaps silk, satin or some other fine light weight fabric. The fabric that I had initially selected to make the waistcoat was now to heavy. It was similar to the fabric used above.

Look at the man's collar above, it is very fine light weight fabric, perhaps silk. From the picture, it does appear to be lined as well. Notice the fine stitches joining the lining and the outer fabric. There is barely any width between the two joined fabrics.

The above waistcoat also shows how fine the waistcoat fabric is. Again, perhaps, silk.

After checking my stash of fabric, I came across this fabric which was a remant from a previous project. It was light enough, a cotton linen blend with a light plaid pattern.  This would do nicely.  Just needed to find some equally suitable lining fabric to compliment the outer fabric.