Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

The shirt sleeves were just simple rectangles, typical for this period underarm gussets were used to provide addtitional support and mobility for the arm area.

The picture below shows the inside of the shirt sleeve with the cuffs pinned to the sleeve waiting to be hand sewn.  I think, that I completed one of these cuffs in the morning prior to going to work.  The extra width of the cuff really made a difference.

This is a better picture of the underarm gusset after it had been added to the sleeve.  Once it was added, than the sleeve was added to the body of the shirt.

Also, the pattern suggested a very small gusset at bottom of the body of shirt's side seams. It was optional, but according to the pattern notes, this portion of the shirt received a lot of wear.  Especially, if this was the gentleman's primary undergarment, the long shirt tails of the body were tucked between the man legs forming a sort of brief. The shirt was worn during the day with other outer garments, but at night, it was worn as a night shirt. 

A closer view of the inserted underarm gusset.

Finally, a week later, the 1812 shirt is complete.  Well almost complete, I still have  to add buttons on the cuffs and one at the neck.  I am pretty pleased with the way this shirt turned out.  Also, the hand sewing turned out not to be so bad after all, I rather liked it.  As other costumers have mentioned, there is a bit more control with hand sewing. It may take a bit longer, but once you develop a rhythm, it is goes pretty quickly.

Ok, one item done, next up will be the waistcoat.

Double Period Project - 1812 / 1912

A picture of the front of the shirt with tailor's tack marking the cutting / slashing line.  Once slashed, a front placket will be added to it for additional support.

The placket has been sewn by machine and slip stiched down by hand on the inside.  

The finished and turned front placket.  I looks pretty good and I was quite pleased with my hand sewing.

Next up, the neck gussets and shoulder reinforcements were added.  Again all this was done by hand.

The picture above shows the completed work for both.

The pattern directions did not suggest interfacing the collar, but I did, just to give it a bit more body.  I had a scrap of medium weight white linen that I used.  It gave it a bit of body without being overly stiff as you can see in the picture below.

As the Project Planning article suggested, break up the project into small units of works. In this way, the entire project becomes manageable and not so overwhelming. The 1812 shirt took me about a week. I am an early riser, so on a few mornings, before work, I completed small tasks that helped in the over all completion of the larger task.  It could be pinning the gussets down at the neck or hand sewing one side of the shoulder reinforcement.  The process really did work.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

The J.P. Ryan shirt pattern was already apart of my pattern collection.  I actually made the ruffled version of the shirt last year.  However, I have not had an opportunity to wear it. I really liked the pattern, it went together pretty well.  I found that the instructions were a bit confusing with its layout and order, but other than that I liked it.  Oh, there was a lot of hand sewing required for this shirt.  I fudged on the ruffled version and did of it most by machine.  That was shirt was not meant for competition.  This one, I actually did all of the hand sewing that it suggested.

Initially, I was not looking forward to all the hand sewing, I found that I didn't mind after a bit.  My stitches got better with pratice.  As mentioned in the previous post, there were a few alterations to the pattern which had to be made, but only a few.  The collar needed to be a  standup collor, no ruffles down the front and at the cuffs,  since this was a day outfit.  If it was meant for evening wear, than there could be ruffles down the front and perhaps at the cuffs.

I forgot, I also removed about six inches from the bottom of the shirt as well.  The previous shirt came almost to my knees. So, it was pretty full and long.

This is a picture of the shoulder support or reinforcement.  The body of the shirt is cut on a fold with a slash for the head and down the front that forms a "T".  To stop the shirt from sliding, the pattern required shoulder reinforcements and small neck gussets.

The original cuff pattern is at the bottom of the picture above and the slightly wider cuff new cutt pattern at the top. I think that I added about 2 1/2 inches to the original pattern to make the cuff more pronounced.

This picture shows the neck gussets after they have been folded and pressed.  They are now ready to be hand sewn into the neck where the neck slash starts.

Double Period Project 1812 Shirt

The J.P. Ryan shirt will need a few modifications to bring it in line with the style of shirts worn around 1812.

Above are the changes that I plan to make.

Double Period Project 1812 - Shirt

The first item that I will make for the contest will be a man shirt from 1812.  I already have the pattern.  It is the J. P. Ryan pattern for a man's 18th Century Shirt.

This particular pattern has two options ruffles at the cuffs and down the front and a shirt without with ruffles. Since this shirt should be around 1812, I will make it without the ruffles.  Also from the inspiration pictures it appears that the men may be outside or at least it is during the day.

Here is picture of the shirt as it appears on the cover of the pattern.

Unfortunately, the second option of the shirt without the ruffles is not that visable from the captured picture above.