Double Period Project 1812/ 1912

Putting it all together, the shirt with waistcoat and a mock up for the neckcloth.

Above is the frockcoat added to the mix.

Trousers have been added.  I still need to add buttons, but, I am pleased with everything so far.

Closer view of the 1812 outfit sans buttons. I like the combination of the colors that were used.

Double Period Projet 1812 / 1912

Making progress with the frockcoat.  Pockets have been inserted in the frockcoat's skirts.  I used the style of the coat skirts from RHF with the TG's pattern.  They came out a bit straighter and not so rounded which I found to be much more appealing to me.

In the above picture, the tobacco brown is very dark, but you can see the pockets.

I mentioned before, that I really liked the instructions provided with the TG's pattern. There is a lot of hand stitching required for this pattern.  I didn't cheat and use a sewing machine.  I did the required stitching.

I used a light weight black linen for the lining. It is pinned and ready to be hand stitched.

Above is my first and second attempt at pad stitching, Although it actually works, the collar is turning in the upper pattern piece.  I actually recut the collar and lining and did not use the pad stitched verison.

My stitches kept coming through the material and you could see them on the under side of the collar.

I guess that I have to do a better job the next time with my pad stitching.

I had to label the sleeve and sleeve linings to keep them straight. I initially pinned the wrong lining sleeve into the wrong sleeve.  So unpinned and labeled each piece to ensure I was doing it correctly.

Sleeve are done, ta da!  Now I get to add the cuffs.

The almost finished product.  I like it.

The M notch collar is not as pronounced as I would have liked, but it is there.

Buttons have to be sewn on, the coat has to be pressed. More hand stitching, I plan to pick stitch all of the edges to keep the lining from rolling to the outside.  I had resew the coat sleeves twice before I could live with them.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

Fabric choices for the frockcoat. The fabric in the middle of the picture below is the waistcoat fabric. The lighter fabric on the right has a lot more texture to it, while the fabric on the left is just dark tobacco brown.

Closeup pictures of the textured material, although, I really like this fabric, it is not right for the 1812 coat.

The dark tobacco brown material is the better choice. I am not quite sure, it has a ruff exterior feel it.  I think that it is a mid weight linen and wool combination.

Pattern pieces layed out and pinned. The sixth version of the notched collar is the tan pattern piece in the lower right hand corner of the picture above.

The frockcoat fronts put together with the linging and facings.

Max, once again helping with the assembly of the coat.

The modified coat tails. I liked the tail pattern from Rocking Horse Farms.  I drafted their pattern over the tail pattern from the TG.

Pockets have been placed in the tails.  You can just make them out in the picture above.

Double Period Project 1812 / 1912

The first mockup did not turn out so well. It was really huge and I did not like the oversized lapels. Everything was fixable, but I did not want to spend time redrafting the entire pattern.  When the only piece that I  really wanted was the notched collar pattern.  So, I decided to try my original pattern, The Tailor's Guide.

 

The pattern pieces were much the same, but not nearly as large.  You can see the pattern package down in the lower right hand corner of the picture above.

A much better picture of the Tailor's Guide pattern.  Although, research says that both collar styles were used at this time.  I still wanted to try the notched collar. So, my idea was to use the Rocking Horse Farm's collar with the Tailor's Guide Pattern.

Above is a picture os the pattern instructions from the Tailor's Guide. Just from the picture, you get a good idea how the assembly instructions are layed out.

Again the Tailor's Guide instructions.

Above are the instructions from Rocking Horse Farm, you can see why the TG's instructions were much preferred.  Don't misunderstand, these instruction also work. I just needed more visual illustrations along with the directions.  It really helps when you are attempting to put together a new or difficult item piece.

Also, I thought that the illustrations for Rocking Horse Farm were poorly done.

 

Mockup number 2, all layed out and ready to cut.

Oh, I actually liked the skirt pattern from Rocking Horse Farm, so, I altered the TG's guide skirt pieces to match the Rocking Horse Farm's pieces. The TG's guide skirt pieces were more rounded, I wanted the straighter versions that RHF offered.  That was easy. 

Partially put together, some item pieces are just pinned together.

Redrafting the notched collar for TG's pattern piece.  It took six attempts until I had a c.ollar that Icould live with.  It wasn't perfect, but I could live with it

I kind of like this.  I am glad that I made a mockup,though.